This is the second of a two parts story on our ill fated climb of the Swiss route on Les Courtes. If you haven't read it already, here is part I, the Ascent.
There is also a high-res photo of les courtes, with our ascent and descent routes marked.
We took stock of our situation. There was a sloping shelf of ice, maybe 2m wide and 5m long, with a ceiling barely a meter above our heads, and a tiny, awkward cave in the back. Higher, another cave, more sheltered but also more icy and slanted. We weren't quite out of the winds, which were still blowing hard, but the caves still offered a decent amount of shelter. We'd survive.
Taking the backpack and the damn skis off, for the first time in the day, was a relief. We built a solid anchor and explored our surroundings a bit, in no hurry to try and go to sleep, knowing the night would be terribly long. We had drunk almost nothing all day and were thoroughly dehydrated, but we found out our water bottles, as everything else, were frozen solid. I couldn't even unscrew the top of mine. Hoping to thaw enough for a few drops, I put my bottle beneath several layers of down, close to my body. I forced myself to eat the only sandwich I had taken, frozen ham and frozen cheese in frozen bread. Yummy.
We emptied the backpacks and used all we could, ropes, gear and bags to try and insulate the freezing ground. Finally, there was nothing left to do but to crawl in and settle for the night. To say the cave was uncomfortable wouldn't begin to describe it. There was barely enough room for one, let alone two. It was severely sloping, threatening to eject us if we didn't push back with our feet on the icy slope. There were a couple of large rocks we hadn't managed to dislodge, which stood in the way and buried themselves in our hips or ribs. Whoever was on the right side had to keep his head turned 90º to avoid a large boulder at the back. Finally, we couldn't go very deep and only the upper part of the body was sheltered from the wind, with anything from the waist or the knees down (depending on the degree of sliding out) still out in the cold.
Sharing body heat was an absolute necessity, and a necessary byproduct of our contorted positions anyway. We slept surprisingly much, usually in micro-nap sequences, probably no more than 15 minutes at a time. One thing we were both very careful to do: never, ever look at the watch, as seeing how early it still was every time we woke up would have crushed our spirits. We swapped positions and spooning order often, trying desperately to find something which would be both warm and comfortable.

































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