Since the headache had disappeared after descending back to Pokalde BC, I thought I would be ok, but it unfortunately returned during the night, with a vengeance. Painkillers didn't touch it and it was so painful that it kept waking me up. There was no doubt: I had AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness), and I needed to go down to recover. The plan had been to go to Island Peak Base Camp right away and start climbing the mountain the following day, though there was discussion of using one of our two rest days since others were getting tired as well. For me, however, the only direction was down and, shortly after breakfast, I departed with Mungo for the small village of Pheriche, across the ridge from Dingboche, to get checked out in the health post. As soon as altitude was lost, I started feeling much better and by the time we reached Pheriche, I could only think of going back up. The two British doctors confirmed that it had been severe AMS but that there was no sign of Edema, either Cerebral or Pulmonary. Treatment was simple: rest 24 to 48h at an altitude without symptoms, then re-ascend slowly. That could only mean one thing: no Island Peak for me. It was pretty hard to come to terms with this, especially since the photos of the mountain would have been important for Jagged Globe which had sent me there, but I had had to give up summits before, and I knew it was the right thing to do. I finally accepted my fate and settled in Dingboche for 5 or 6 days of waiting.

Resting and relaxing did me a lot of good, and after a good night of sleep, I felt great, with no sign of a headache. I hiked back to Pheriche to check with the doctors and got caught up in a puppy cuddling session (there are photos of me with them, but there is no way I will put them on the internet...). As I returned to the lodge for lunch, I ran into Mungo, John and Torben. John had gotten AMS too at Island Peak BC, with additional loss of coordination which was extremely worrying, and Torben was simply exhausted. While Mungo took them to Pheriche, we agreed that 24h without symptoms was enough for a cautious attempt on Island Peak after all and, barely half an hour after having finally accepted I wouldn't get a chance to climb the mountain, I was on the way to its Base Camp!

The Imja valley, with Island Peak at its head, on the way down from Pokalde BC.

The village of Pheriche, home of the local health post, and overshadowed by Taboche.

A small stupa in front of Taboche. Its unofficial nickname is "The Ego Mountain".

Another stupa in front of the same angry Taboche.

High winds making the prayer flags around a stupa in Dingboche dance.

Prayer flags in front of Taboche.

The summit of Taboche in high winds.

Crows playing with the winds in front of Taboche.

Suzy, one of the volunteer doctors at the Pheriche health post, warming up a puppy.

More puppy love from Suzi, the other doctor at Pheriche.

Trekkers on the Dingboche ridge, in front of the west face of Island Peak.

Crows fly in front of Kongde getting engulfed by clouds.

Trekkers coming down the Imja valley, with Island Peak in the background.

A trekker in front of a fluted snow face, above Chukhung.