Though the snowfall lasted all night, we woke up to a glorious sun and a good 20cm of fresh snow on the ground. There was no question of going anywhere that day, especially since the first part of the climb after High Camp is on unprotected slabs, which need to be snow free to be safe. We instead relaxed for the day, using up our second rest - we were still on schedule but had no more margin of error.

The pleasant day was spent taking short hikes to the nearby ridges, building snowmen, drinking tea and plotting routes up the incredibly impressive north face of Cholatse which was towering above our camp, releasing giant avalanches every half hour. I promised myself I would come back, someday, for this mountain.


Early morning in glorious sunshine and buried tents despite our efforts during the night.

Early morning in glorious sunshine and buried tents despite our efforts during the night.

John checking the weather in a very noncommital way.

John checking the weather in a very noncommital way.

The very steep north face of Cholatse purges some of the freshly fallen snow.

The very steep north face of Cholatse purges some of the freshly fallen snow.

One place where I definitely didn't want to be...

One place where I definitely didn't want to be...

There's nothing like sunshine after a big storm.

There's nothing like sunshine after a big storm.

A sub-summit of the Taboche-Cholatse group, Khumbu, Nepal

A sub-summit of the Taboche-Cholatse group.

Rachel on the big plateau at the edge of which we established Base Camp, Khumbu, Nepal

Rachel on the big plateau at the edge of which we established Base Camp.

Trekkers coming down from the Cho La pass, with Taboche in the background, Khumbu, Nepal

Trekkers coming down from the Cho La pass, with Taboche in the background.

360° panorama from the ridge above BC. From left to right, Ama Dablam, Malangphulang, Taboche, Cholatse, Cho La pass, Lobuje East, Lhotse. Khumbu, Nepal

360° panorama from the ridge above BC. From left to right, Ama Dablam, Malangphulang, Taboche, Cholatse, Cho La pass, Lobuje East, Lhotse.

Click on the image for a larger version.

Malangphulang and part of the north face of Taboche, Khumbu, Nepal

Malangphulang and part of the north face of Taboche.

The group expresses its creativity in a temproary modern art installation, Khumbu, Nepal

The group expresses its creativity in a temproary modern art installation.

Light effects and high winds blasting fresh snow off the summit of Cholatse, Khumbu, Nepal

Light effects and high winds blasting fresh snow off the summit of Cholatse.

Weird sun effect in the Nepali sky, Khumbu, Nepal

Weird sun effect in the Nepali sky.

Base Camp below Ama Dablam and Malangphulang, Khumbu, Nepal

Base Camp below Ama Dablam and Malangphulang.

Ama Dablam and the Malangphulang group, Khumbu, Nepal

Ama Dablam and the Malangphulang group.

Malangphulang and a friend, Khumbu, Nepal

Malangphulang and a friend.

Sunset behind the north face of Cholatse, Khumbu, Nepal

Sunset behind the north face of Cholatse.

Lobuje East, with the slabs in the shade and the summit ridge catching the last rays of sun, Khumbu, Nepal

Lobuje East, with the slabs in the shade and the summit ridge catching the last rays of sun.