After a snowfall, the big question was whether the lower slabs of Lobuje would be dry enough to allow safe passage. The only way of knowing was to go up and have a look ourselves, so we kept our schedule and moved to high camp in an easy hour and a half. While we relaxed in the tents (starting to see a pattern here?), Mungo and Chyote climbed up to the slabs to take a look. When they came down, they announced the bad news: the rock was covered in verglas which would take a few days to clear. Since many moves relied on friction and had to be done in the dark, they felt it was too dangerous to take a group there and decided to abort the climb.

We were all disappointed, obviously, but after all, this is mountaineering, and you don't get to choose what the conditions are. As a consolation prize, I scrambled above the lake next to which we had established camp and witnessed yet another amazing sunset.


Taboche and Cholatse from BC, in early morning light.

Taboche and Cholatse from BC, in early morning light.

Dave and Chyote on the way to High Camp.

Dave and Chyote on the way to High Camp.

Mungo, our fearless leader.

Mungo, our fearless leader.

Chongba, always smiling.

Chongba, always smiling.

One of the porters, shortly before High Camp.

One of the porters, shortly before High Camp.

Mark and Norrie arriving in High Camp.

Mark and Norrie arriving in High Camp.

Amazingly, the yaks followed us to all the high camps.

Amazingly, the yaks followed us to all the high camps.

What I believe to be an eagle making a low scouting flight above our camp.

What I believe to be an eagle making a low reconnaissance flight above our camp.

An eagle flying above a sub-buttress of Lobuje.

An eagle flying above a sub-buttress of Lobuje.

Ama Dablam above the High Camp lake.

Ama Dablam above the High Camp lake.

Evening mist below Ama Dablam.

Evening mist below Ama Dablam.

Spontaneous modeling from the group, keen on helping me get better pictures...

Spontaneous modeling from the group, keen on helping me get better pictures...

Sunset mist below Cholatse.

Sunset mist below Cholatse.

Panorama of the view from above camp, with the Nuptse-Lhotse wall, Ama Dablam and Taboche-Cholatse.

Panorama of the view from above camp, with the Nuptse-Lhotse wall, Ama Dablam and Taboche-Cholatse.

Click on the image for a larger version.

Kongde (?) making another appearance.

Kongde (?) making another appearance.

High Camp from above.

High Camp from above.

Ama Dablam, a mountain I never get tired of photographing.

Ama Dablam, a mountain I never get tired of photographing.

Members of a Canadian expedition camped next to us, after summitting Island Peak on the same day, a week earlier.

Members of a Canadian expedition camped next to us, after summitting Island Peak on the same day, a week earlier.

Nuptse-Lhotse catching the last rays.

Nuptse-Lhotse catching the last rays.

Ama Dablam seconds away from sunset.

Ama Dablam seconds away from sunset.

Rachel admiring Ama Dablam from High Camp.

Rachel admiring Ama Dablam from High Camp.