Things went wrong from the very beginning. I got up half an hour before sunrise and was keen to get started as soon as possible since I had a pretty tight schedule to keep. Unfortunately, the kitchen was still closed and it was thus impossible to get tea or even water. After pondering for a while, I decided I couldn't afford to waste any more time and that since I would only be gone for half a day, I could tough it out. Bad mistake, of course. I don't know what I was thinking.

The walk, gently uphill on a moraine valley, was pleasant enough and the views excellent, especially with Cho Oyu looming above me and appearing so close. But by the time I reached my goal, the fifth lake, I was dehydrated and exhausted, my body not quite recovered from the previous day effort. The plan had been to scale an easy 5400m mountain to get great views, but I only managed to laboriously get to 5200 before having to give up, tired and pressed for time. Even without reaching the top, however, the views were amazing, possibly the best in the whole trip.

Returning to Gokyo was an ordeal, especially with the dry wind coming to my face. Two hours later, when I stumbled back in Gokyo, I was a mess and my voice was entirely gone. Rehydration and a short nap did me a lot of good but were no miracle. At 4pm, the entire group now reunited (minus John and Torben who had been helicoptered off to a hospital in Kathmandu in the morning) set off for a 600m ascent to the top of Gokyo Ri, a hill above the village from which the view over Everest was famous. I struggled upward for more than an hour but slowly felt my strength fade and came to the realisation that I was now digging in my body's emergency reserves and that things could get dangerous if I kept going. I finally accepted my fate and, more relieved than disappointed, headed down back to the cozy lodge.

Sunrise on Cho Oyu.

A cairn on the path up to the fifth lake, with the ridge separating Nepal from Tibet in the background.

7922m high Gyachung Kang, which would be a lot better know if only it was 78m higher...

Above the fifth lake, featuring a few of the world's highest mountains.

360° panorama from above the fifth lake, showing Gyachung Kang, Chakung, Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Lobuje, the two Kangchung peaks, Kusum Kanguru and Pharilapche.

Click on the image for a larger version.

Three of the five highest mountains in the world: Everest, Lhotse and Makalu.

Everest, showing parts of the normal route (and original ascent line), with the South Col, South Summit and Hillary Step.

Two trekkers coming up the mountain above the fifth lake, with the impressive Gokyo glacier below us.

Two trekkers below Cho Oyu.

Hiking next to the fourth lake, with Cho Oyu in the background.

Our group going up Gokyo Ri for sunset. I had to give up shortly afterward, out of exhaustion.

Cholatse and Taboche above Gokyo.

The last rays of sunset on Taboche, while Cholatse is already in the shade.

High winds and clouds reflecting sunset light near the summit of Lhotse.

Unidentified mountain (Kusum Kanguru?) at sunset, seen from Gokyo Ri.

Gokyo, nested next to the third lake, below Cholatse and Taboche.

The third lake at dusk.