A few motivated souls, including myself, got up extra early and walked back up the hill shortly before sunrise to attend the morning prayer in the Tengboche monastery, a unique and very impressive experience as much music and seemingly elaborate ceremonies are involved, but the whole thing remains a fairly relaxed affair. Later in the day, we kept heading up the valley running along the Imja Khola river. Unfortunately, bad weather came in earlier than usual and, though no rain was involved, we walked most of the day in mist and freezing winds. Much to our despair, we couldn't see any of Ama Dablam or Island Peak when we reached our destination, the quite large village of Dingboche.

Hoping for a brief clearing in the clouds, I hiked to the top of a ridge above the village and started waiting. Soon, bits of Ama Dablam started uncovering. I was starting to get hopeful when, on a whim, I turned around and was stunned for a moment by the view: Taboche and much of the Cho La valley were in plain sight, covered in just enough clouds to add interest to the images and bathed in amazing light. After an hour, as I thought things couldn't possibly get any better, the moon rose above Makalu.


Morning prayers in the Tengboche monastery, Khumbu, Nepal

Morning prayers in the Tengboche monastery.

The Tengboche monastery in front of Kongde, Khumbu, Nepal

The Tengboche monastery in front of Kongde.

Ama Dablam above the Imja Khola river, Khumbu, Nepal

Ama Dablam above the Imja Khola river.

Ama Dablam showing through prayer flags, Khumbu, Nepal

Ama Dablam showing through prayer flags.

Two porters on the trail to Dingboche, Khumbu, Nepal.

Two porters on the trail to Dingboche.

The group nearing a stupa on the trail, with Ama Dablam in the background, Khumbu, Nepal.

The group nearing a stupa on the trail, with Ama Dablam in the background.

A stupa in front of Ama Dablam, Khumbu, Nepal.

A stupa in front of Ama Dablam.

Two Japanese tourists near a stupa above the trail, Khumbu, Nepal.

Two Japanese trekkers near a stupa above the trail.

Taboche showing through clearing clouds, Khumbu, Nepal

Taboche showing through clearing clouds.

The end of the Cho La valley, with a series of subsidiary peaks of the Taboche-Cholatse group, Khumbu, Nepal

The end of the Cho La valley, with a series of subsidiary peaks of the Taboche-Cholatse group.

Lhotse south face seen from the ridge above Dingboche, Khumbu, Nepal

Lhotse south face seen from the ridge above Dingboche.

The summit of Ama Dablam in evening light, Khumbu, Nepal

The summit of Ama Dablam in evening light.

Evening light on Cholatse, seen from Dingboche, Khumbu, Nepal.

Evening light on Cholatse, seen from Dingboche.

Our first glimpse of Lobuje East, which was to be our third summit, Khumbu, Nepal.

Our first glimpse of Lobuje East, which was to be our third summit.

Prayer flags and Lhotse bathed in warm evening light, Khumbu, Nepal

Prayer flags and Lhotse bathed in warm evening light.

Moonrise over Makalu, the 5th highest mountain in the world, Khumbu, Nepal.

Moonrise over Makalu, the 5th highest mountain in the world.

The now traditional evening mist over the Dingboche ridge from where I witnessed sunset, Khumbu, Nepal.

The now traditional evening mist over the Dingboche ridge from where I witnessed sunset.

Boris, a fellow Frenchman met on the ridge, admiring last light on Ama Dablam, Khumbu, Nepal

Boris, a fellow Frenchman met on the ridge, admiring last light on Ama Dablam.