15 February 2010

Scottish Towers


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5:30. Both our alarms go off at the same moment. I had just found something resembling sleep in the decidedly not so comfortable bivy bag, but, excited by the climb to come, get up in an instant. It's too early to eat anything, but Dave manages to force a Scottish egg down while I lace my boots. We prepared the packs a few hours ago, when we reached the north face car park: a small rack, two 8mm ropes, our personal kit, a quart of water and some cereal bars, we're going light today. In less than half an hour, we are gone.

The path starts in a forest and goes steadily uphill. It takes me a little while to find a comfortable pace, especially with my huge Spantiks on the feet, but the walk in the dark soon becomes quite pleasant. After a little while, we reach the upper car park and a wide plateau void of any trees. In the distance, some lights close to the CIC hut let us know that we are not the only ones heading up the Ben.

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30 August 2009

Mont Blanc, a child dream


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I looked down. The Petits Rochers Rouges were impossibly far away, I should have been on the summit by now. And yet, all I could see was the exact same snow shape above me. Slowly, one step at a time, I climbed up, and up, and up, until I finally could see what was standing behind the dome. And of course, instead of the air I had been hoping for, there was more snow. It was just a false summit. The mountain was playing with me, and it made me angry. Full of rage, I walked faster up this slope which I didn't dare hope was the last. Mistaking distances once more, I realized that what I had thought was yet another endless hill only took me a few minutes to go through.

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2 August 2009

Don't piss off the water gods - A wet epic on Jubiläumsgrat


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The first thing that I noticed was how bloody damn exposed the route was. Constantly going up and down and from side to side, with sobering (and undoubtedly fatal) falls just a step away, the ridge alternated between climbing moves and upright walking on a very narrow path, with no chance of grabbing anything to help stabilize. There is but one way of progressing: trust your balance, make sure you are fully in control, and just go for it. It reminded me a lot of running it out in trad climbing, and my mind quickly settled in that mode for the rest of the day, scared to death but not allowing my movements to be affected by it (other than the occasional cursing that anyone who has ever belayed me knows very well).

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